5月20日
20 May

ワルザザートからアイト・ベンハドゥとテルウェトの
クサールに立ち寄った後、2,260mのティシュカ峠から
標高453mのマラケシュに下る
From Ouarzazat, through Ait-Benhaddou and Telouet,
and Tichka Pass (2,260 meters), to Marrakech (453 meters)

まずは映画の撮影にも使われたというクサール(城塞都市)のアイト・ベンハドゥへ。丘の上にあるが、水がないため、少なからぬ住民が麓に移ってしまっているとのこと。その麓にはみやげ物屋等が多い。1軒定価販売の店あり。全般に安いとの印象。青緑色で星の形の穴を開けてある壺など、焼き物を買う。

マラケシュ方面へのティシュカ峠の手前で、アイト・ベンハドゥからの元の街道を東に入り、クサールであるテルェトへ。3時代のものが続いている。案内された3代目のものの内部は、タイル、彫り物、細かい絵の扉など、宮殿風。但し、建物本体の傷みも多い。案内人は50DHの謝礼で喜んでいた。かつてはそこに住んでいたとのこと。

元の国道に戻り、2,260mのティシュカ峠から標高453mのマラケシュに下る。この間、数台のトラックが、谷底に転落しているのを見る。

Tizi-n-Tichkaのレストランは、安く、内容も良い。愛想も良く、領収書も出す。但し、量は少ない。

宿は、結局ガイドだから20DHよこせと言った人間に「150DHだ。」と言われて連れていかれたHotel Fantasia。200DH。中庭などタイルできれいだが、部屋はひどく狭い。テレビとエアコンがあるが、スイッチなし。食事は朝8:30なので、とても食べられない。

マラケシュは砂嵐状態で、とても歩いていられないので、町の見物は早々に切り上げる。しかし、砂嵐も治まった夜は、広場で屋台の食事を楽しむ。

My first visit of the day was to Ait Benhaddou which is a ksar made famous when it was used for a movie. My houses are on the hill slopes. However, because such houses lack water, may have left the ksar, although there are still certain people living there. On the foothill there were souvenir shops. One of them had fixed prices. In general, prices were quite reasonable there. I bought a few ceramic products including a bluish green vase with holes in the shape of stars.

Immediately before the Tichka Pass, I turned to a narrow road, which used to be the main road connecting the valley area to Marrakech, to Telouet. The ksar there was a combination of three buildings constructed in three different dates. The third or the last one is open to tourists to find the delicate decrations inside the building with tiles, carvings, paintings, etc. It was a kind of palace. However, the building was under decay. The guide, who used to live there, was quite pleased to my honorarium of DH 50, although we must urgently collect much money to stop the decay.

Returning to the main highway, I went down to Marrakech at 453 meters in altitude through the Tichka Pass at 2,260 meters. On the say, I saw a few trucks that had just jumped down from the road to the valley bottoms.

The restaurant at the Tichka Pass was good and reasonable - an exception as a road-side restaurant. They are friendly and courteous and issue receipts. However, the quantity was relatively small.

Today's accommodation was Hotel Fantasia, to which I was taken by a man who looked kind but at last requested DH 20 because he had provided to me guide service and which proved to be DH200 when I checked in. With tiles, the courtyard and others were clean and neat. However, the room was extremely small with no sufficient space around the bed. A TV and air-conditioner were found in the room but there were no switches to operate them. The breakfast time starting at 8:30 was too late for me.

On this day, I was bothered by a light sandstorm. Because of this stopped walking in the town soon. However, I could enjoy my dinner at a foodstall in the Djemaa el Fna.

テルウェト Telouet

マラケシュ・ワルザザート間のティシュカ峠より少しワルザザート寄りのところから1車線の田舎道(舗装)を東に21キロ行ったところにあるテルウェト(Telouet)のクサールは、内部がすばらしく、訪問の価値あり。

3つの時代にわたって3つのクサールが相接して作られたとのことで、その3つめのものが公開されている。宮殿と表現したらよいようなタイル細工と彫り物の壁、細かい模様が描かれた扉と天井、大理石の床が見事。食堂だったというところから見える緑の農地などの風景も美しい。今の国道ができる前は、ここを通る道がワルザザート方面への街道だったとのことなので、その頃の栄華がしのばれる。

このクサールは今は無人とのことだが、かつて住んでいたという人が案内してくれる(説明はフランス語)。最後に「寸志」を渡す。建物の傷みが進んでいるので、少し多めに50DH払ったらとても喜んでくれた。

クサールの数百メートル手前に小さなレストランや土産物屋がある。簡単な宿もある様子。ここの客引きなどはちょっとしつこい。土産物屋は、クサールの直前にも1軒。

私はレンタカーだったので足に問題はなかったが、この村へのバンなどの公共交通機関は、本数がかなり限られる様子(日帰りのつもりで訪問したが、この村で1泊せざるを得なかったという情報などがインターネット上ににあるので、参考に。)。なお、ここから元の街道をワルザザートに抜けるには4輪駆動車が必要と聞いている。

The ksar in Telouet, which is located in 21 kilometers away from an intersection near the Tichka Pass on a one-lane rural but paved road, is worth a visit. with delicate decorations inside the building.

Of the three ksars constructed in different dates, the last one is open to the visitors. It can be described as a palace with walls with delicate handiworks and carvings, with doors and ceilings with precise paintings and with marble floors. Also beautiful were the views from the former dining room. The road in the village used to be the man road connecting the inner part of the country and Marakech. The ksar helps us imagine how the village was flourishing in the past.

The ksar is not inhabited any more. However, a gentleman who used to live there, was available as a guide in French. As there was no fixed fee, we give an honorarium to him. In view of the decay of the building, I paid DH 50, which I believed was more than average. The gentleman was quite pleased with that amount.

There was a cluster of restaurants and souvenir shops a few hundered meters before the ksar. It seemed to also have simple accommodations. However, the touts there were persistent.

There was another souvenir shop immediately before the ksar.

The public transport to this village seemed to be quite limited. In the Internet, I read a report that a visitor had to stay a night in the village due to the quite limited services. Also, I hear that the section of the road between this village and Telouet is passable only with a four-wheel-drive off-road vehicle.

マラケシュの屋台 Foodstalls in Marrakech

マラケシュの夕食は、是非屋台で食べることをお勧めする。雰囲気が良くて、かつ、おいしい。値段も安め。

私が食べた屋台の中で雰囲気が良かったのは、番号が1番のところ。商業活動に従事するのはほとんど男ばかりというモロッコの中で、ここでは、お母さん、娘さん、息子さん、家族みんなでやっていたせいかもしれない。

Eating at the foodstall in the Djemaa el Fna is highly recommended. In good atmposphere, food tastes good and the prices are reasonable.

I liked foodstall no. 1 where I had my dinner. It might be somewhate related to the fact that this foodstall was operated by family members including the mother, daugher and son in the country where those who are engaged in commercial activities are men in almost all cases.

国道を離れてアイト・ベンハドゥへ Going for Ait Benhaddou, departing the national highway for Marrakech	アイト・ベンハドゥは、宿やみやげ物屋の並ぶ小集落から川をはさんで向かいの丘の麓から上部にかけてある。 Ait Benhaddou is located from the foothill toward its top across a river opposite a cluster of souvenir shops, inns and hotels
アイト・ベンハドゥの丘の上から From the top of the hill of Ait Benhaddou	アイト・ベンハドゥの丘の上から From the top of the hill
背後は丘の頂上 The top of the hill is behind.
ティシュカ峠直前で国道を離れ、田舎道をテルウェトに向かう。 Now going for Telouet departing the highway immediately before the Tichka Pass.
テルウェトのクサール。外観は傷みが気にかかる。 The decay was a concern about the ksar at Telouet.
食堂だった部屋の窓から From the former dining room
	屋上から From the roof
ティシュカ峠のみやげ物屋(2階にあるレストランから) Souvenir shops (taken from the restaurant, 2nd floor)	ティシュカ峠2,260メートル Tichka Pass, 2,260 meters
ティシュカ峠から下る。
マラケシュの屋台1番での夕食 My dinner at foodstall No. 1 in Marrakech